I bought 1 L of fresh Ate Super Blue Racing fluid. Notice that the 1 qt waste container in the second pic above is not quite full - after doing the second of my E-38's. Now I torqued the wheel bolts firmly (I use 90 ft-lbs), filled the reservoir to its previous level, and capped it w/ the sensor float. And I don't have an 11mm box wrench! So I used the 11mm socket and handle (shown in the tools pic) to only "break" the valve free (NOT open!), fit the bleeder's tube, and then open the valve ~¼ turn w/ the vice-grip pliers.īutton-up this corner and I could safely remove the chocks (which I had moved to the diagonally opposite the corner as I worked around the car). Whereas the 750's were 7mm front and rear, as on the 740's rear caliper the 740's front caliper is 11mm. The main difference was the bleed valve hex size on the 740. The differences between that car and the one pictured here ('96 740) are few: vented rear rotors and 2 piston front calipers on the 750. I did this procedure on the 750 yesterday. The same SPECIAL NOTE: DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR GO DRY! If it does YOU'LL NEED TO START OVER - bleeding the AIR out of the system. Replace the wheel and bolts and move to the LR wheel. Now I could close the RR caliper's bleed valve, remove the tube, the 7mm spanner, and reinstall the rubber nipple cap - recapturing the brake pad sensor's wire. If it does YOU'LL NEED TO START OVER - bleeding the AIR out of the system. SPECIAL NOTE: Do not let the reservoir go dry. It had dropped to the "max." mark after 20 pushes. A couple extra pushes were given for good measure - 19 or 20 total.ĭuring this pumping, checking color, and checking tubing connections I also checked the fluid level in the reservoir. The line to the RR caliper required 15 full pushes to turn the emerging waste fluid green. Then I sat behind the steering wheel and began pumping the brake pedal, counting each full push (to the floor). Now I replaced the sender float shield, placed the funnel, and over-filled the reservoir w/ fresh fluid.īack to the RR caliper, I opened the bleeder valve ~¼ turn. Don't panic if it does, but wipe completely dry ASAP. Now I used the baster to empty the reservoir, transferring the old fluid into my bleeder device's waste container.ĭid I mention that brake fluid is a PAINT SOLVENT! Do not allow it to remain on ANY PAINTED SURFACE. I could just as easily unclip the sender connector. I made a sleeve from folded newspaper to contain the sender float and its shield. Open the hood, locate the brake fluid reservoir, and note the fluid level. Believe me, you don't want to strip the bleed screw - it's not hard to do so.) Then attach the bleed device's tube. (Note the position of the wench - I want to return it to the same (closed) position. Then I fitted the box end of my 7mm spanner over it. I popped off the cap and removed it to expose the 7mm hex on its shaft. Notice that it's covered by a rubber cap. It's on the upper, back, outer side of the caliper and is seen in front of the jack's white wheel in the pic below. Lift the right, rear wheel and remove.Ĭheck to ensure that car is stable, then find the caliper bleed nipple. The logic is to start at the farthest wheel from the fluid reservoir and work toward the nearest wheel. I SET THE PARKING BRAKE AND USE WHEEL CHOCKS ! I raised the rear from the differential housing so I could work both rear's w/ one lift. And SET THE PARKING BRAKE AND USE WHEEL CHOCKS ! If you use the EMERGENCY trunk jack to lift the wheels, please have a jack-stand in place to prevent unfortunate consequences. You could do this w/ just the trunk jack, but I must warn you that I consider it unnecessarily DANGEROUS to do so. (I have two floor jacks though it's not necessary. 2-ton floor jack w/ second chock, heavy floor jack and nitrile gloves, (on towel) small vice-grip pliers, handle w/ 11mm socket, yellow funnel w/ sleeve, my "MacGyvered" brake bleeding apparatus, baster syringe, torque wrench w/ 17mm socket, wheel bolt wrench, 7mm combination spanner (wrench), and 1 L can of Ate blue brake fluid (enough for both 7's). Here's how I did it:Īssemble tools and supplies - Clockwise from the wheel chock at 10 o'clock, alum. Īuthor: WTH (moderator) : member since December, 2003 : 4262 postsīMW recommends brake fluid be changed every 24 months. Subject: Brake Fluid Change - What I did - Step by step.
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